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More Than Just Sun and Sea
November 22, 2024
The iconic meal, symbolizing hedonism and gathering around the table, follows just one rule: the food must be delicious, homemade, and prepared with love.
Salted anchovies, homemade prosciutto. Bean stew with sausage, cod prepared à la gregada. Tripe, stuffed peppers, pašticada, or meat in a rich tomato sauce. And sometimes, just a simple piece of meat squeezed between two slices of fresh bread. So many different dishes, such a variety of ingredients, yet all united under one name: marenda.
Dalmatian marenda is much more than just a meal. There’s no prescribed place where it must be enjoyed, nor is there a strict definition of what qualifies as marenda. This meal once nourished laborers, giving them strength for demanding work, and today it stands as a symbol of gathering around the table, the familiar aromas of our mothers’ and grandmothers’ kitchens, and the preservation of traditional flavors lovingly prepared.
Marenda Is Not “Brunch”—It’s Hedonism and Authentic Flavors of Dalmatia
If you look up the term marenda in Croatian dictionaries or linguistic lexicons, you’ll find it defined as a “meal between breakfast and lunch” or a “snack.” Traditionally, it was indeed a meal consumed between 10 a.m. and noon, often during a work break. Today, the timing has become more flexible, and one might enjoy a marenda even in the early afternoon. However, the true beauty and significance of marenda go far beyond formal definitions or a specific time of day. It’s about much more than the clock—it’s a cherished ritual, a connection to tradition, and a moment of simple pleasure.
Its true significance lies in the beauty of gathering around the table, the sense of togetherness, and the laid-back atmosphere, all enriched by the unmistakable flavors of Dalmatia. Marenda is not, and never will be, about international cuisine—no sushi, tacos, or tortillas here. And don’t even think about trying to explain marenda with the English word “brunch”! In Dalmatia, people don’t go out for brunch; they go on marenda.
Marenda was the fuel that sustained workers and laborers, providing them with the energy needed for their demanding tasks.
Even the Dalmatian locals will admit that marenda can be a challenging concept to explain. Visitors and foreigners, or as the locals call them, furešti, might find it puzzling that the term applies to both a simple, no-frills meal and an elaborate dish requiring significant effort and skill. To truly understand this somewhat abstract notion, one must delve into the past. How did the now-iconic Dalmatian marenda come to be?
It all began in the 1970s and 1980s, rooted in the daily rhythms of factories, shipyards, and other workplaces where hardworking people were immersed in their tasks from the early hours. This was the meal that punctuated their mornings, offering a well-deserved pause and a moment of nourishment amidst the demands of labor. Over time, what started as a practical necessity evolved into a cherished tradition, blending practicality with the joy of sharing and savoring local flavors.
And this work was hard, physical labor— the kind that required real energy, the kind that couldn’t be sustained on just a pastry or a bowl of oatmeal. Workdays started early, so the hunger had to be satisfied before noon. Workers gathered at designated marenda spots, often provided by factories, where hearty meals were served. Marenda wasn’t just a snack; it was substantial. Stews, meats, and other “strong” dishes, prepared that very morning, were the fuel needed to power through the day.
Marenda is a tradition, a symbol of togetherness, and a celebration of life.
The world has changed, but the institution of marenda has not disappeared. It remains woven into the daily life of every Dalmatian. Marenda happens at home, at work, in the fields… It’s a part of the day that signifies tradition and togetherness, often accompanied by a glass of wine, and sometimes even a song. It is a hedonistic custom, in fact, a way of life that has lived here for centuries.
And that is exactly why it is one of the most authentic local experiences a tourist can have in Dalmatia. On the islands and in coastal towns, they will enjoy seafood, brudet, black risotto, and salted anchovies. Heading into the hinterland, they will be greeted by delicious homemade prosciutto and pancetta, succulent meat cooked under the peka…
A true mediterranean experience in restaurants and taverns that preserve old flavors
Mediterranean cuisine is considered one of the most fascinating and healthiest in the world, and all of its best flavors can be experienced in Dalmatia. In the taverns that still preserve old recipes, dishes are prepared with love, without shortcuts or instant solutions. The best approach is to simply ask: “What’s good today?” and trust the chef or owner’s recommendation, enjoying the authentic flavors that have been savored for generations, often accompanied by a glass of local wine. While not always the case, marenda is often prepared in a large pot, teća, which is placed in the center of the table and shared among friends and family, accompanied by lively conversation and laughter.
The teća is one of the symbols of marenda, whether it holds humble tripice (tripe) or the lavish gregada (fish stew). The teća symbolizes the effort and love of the person who prepared the meal, but also the sense of unity and connection among those who share the meal. From Split to Trilj, the islands of Hvar or Šolta, to coastal towns like Omiš and Kaštela… The next time you find yourself in Dalmatia, forget fast food and skip the brunch. Seek out a true Dalmatian tavern and indulge in the experience of marenda.
Check out our documentary videos about Dalmatian marenda:
Author: Putni kofer
